Discussion:
Studebaker R3 Engine For Sale B103
(too old to reply)
n***@yahoo.com
2007-03-16 18:44:57 UTC
Permalink
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
me at ***@hotmail.com for information. This is essentially
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.

Nimesh
satdoc2 via CarKB.com
2007-03-16 20:36:22 UTC
Permalink
Some might be serious at $1000 others $5000+. Give us a hint.
Allen
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
--
Allen French

Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200703/1
John Poulos
2007-03-16 20:43:08 UTC
Permalink
I'll take 3 at 5K.<g>
Post by satdoc2 via CarKB.com
Some might be serious at $1000 others $5000+. Give us a hint.
Allen
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
--
JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Wagonaire
64 Daytona HT
64 Commander 2 dr
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63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Lark 2 door
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander
n***@yahoo.com
2007-03-16 22:22:25 UTC
Permalink
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
I would be looking in the $20k range. Probably the best R3 in
existence. But I know how most stude people are with their money, so
I'll probably end up keeping it. But if anyone knows about what
parts would cost, if you can find them, you would understand.

Nimesh
satdoc2 via CarKB.com
2007-03-17 02:13:41 UTC
Permalink
Would you take a 64 year old wife and a Great Dane as part payment?
Allen
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
I would be looking in the $20k range. Probably the best R3 in
existence. But I know how most stude people are with their money, so
I'll probably end up keeping it. But if anyone knows about what
parts would cost, if you can find them, you would understand.
Nimesh
--
Allen French

Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200703/1
randee
2007-03-17 04:28:21 UTC
Permalink
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
I would be looking in the $20k range. Probably the best R3 in
existence. But I know how most stude people are with their money, so
I'll probably end up keeping it. But if anyone knows about what
parts would cost, if you can find them, you would understand.
Nimesh
n***@yahoo.com
2007-03-18 02:19:05 UTC
Permalink
Post by randee
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
The rods do NOT have a clinch bolt. It is an interference fit between
the rod and wrist pin. The heads are genuine 1555479 casting number
R3 heads. There are a lot of myths as to the heads running out. I
know of B24 that has ported/polished R2 heads. Mine is B103 with REAL
heads. B108 belongs to a friend of mine and it also has REAL R3
heads. Balanced tag was almost deteriorated as it was an aluminum
tag. I still have the remains of it. There really is no REAL
breaking point on the Heads. I know of early engines that have R2
heads and really late engines with REAL heads. Also, the rod
situation is also a myth. The theory that I am going by is that if
you have a Red oil pan, you have the good rods and if you have a black
oil pan, you have the regular rods with the clinch bolt. I know of 6
other engines that belong to friends of mine and 3 of them have black
oil pans and the regular rods. The red oil pan ones have the good
rods. Hope this helps
randee
2007-03-18 05:32:45 UTC
Permalink
Don't recall ever hearing the story about rod type and pan color.
However somewhere I may still have my old correspondence with Paxton (I
bought a Paxton engine back around '67-'69). In the correspondence he
pointed out that although they had parts for several more R3 blocks on
hand, they were going to be shortly out of R3 heads and after the R3
heads were gone they would supply ported and polished R2 heads as they
had done on some earlier engines. I wound up with the ported/polished
heads on my motor (bought the R3 heads separately later form elsewhere).

No idea now what serial number was on the motor.
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by randee
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
The rods do NOT have a clinch bolt. It is an interference fit between
the rod and wrist pin. The heads are genuine 1555479 casting number
R3 heads. There are a lot of myths as to the heads running out. I
know of B24 that has ported/polished R2 heads. Mine is B103 with REAL
heads. B108 belongs to a friend of mine and it also has REAL R3
heads. Balanced tag was almost deteriorated as it was an aluminum
tag. I still have the remains of it. There really is no REAL
breaking point on the Heads. I know of early engines that have R2
heads and really late engines with REAL heads. Also, the rod
situation is also a myth. The theory that I am going by is that if
you have a Red oil pan, you have the good rods and if you have a black
oil pan, you have the regular rods with the clinch bolt. I know of 6
other engines that belong to friends of mine and 3 of them have black
oil pans and the regular rods. The red oil pan ones have the good
rods. Hope this helps
--
wf.
Wayne Flowers
Randee Greenwald
***@zianet.com
Michael - Roseland FL
2007-03-18 13:29:54 UTC
Permalink
If I wasn't building a house right now I would scoop it up and put it
in a 1965 Excalibur and build a Studebaker SS clone with a real R3
engine. How sweet would that be?
Post by randee
Don't recall ever hearing the story about rod type and pan color.
However somewhere I may still have my old correspondence with Paxton (I
bought a Paxton engine back around '67-'69). In the correspondence he
pointed out that although they had parts for several more R3 blocks on
hand, they were going to be shortly out of R3 heads and after the R3
heads were gone they would supply ported and polished R2 heads as they
had done on some earlier engines. I wound up with the ported/polished
heads on my motor (bought the R3 heads separately later form elsewhere).
No idea now what serial number was on the motor.
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by randee
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
The rods do NOT have a clinch bolt. It is an interference fit between
the rod and wrist pin. The heads are genuine 1555479 casting number
R3 heads. There are a lot of myths as to the heads running out. I
know of B24 that has ported/polished R2 heads. Mine is B103 with REAL
heads. B108 belongs to a friend of mine and it also has REAL R3
heads. Balanced tag was almost deteriorated as it was an aluminum
tag. I still have the remains of it. There really is no REAL
breaking point on the Heads. I know of early engines that have R2
heads and really late engines with REAL heads. Also, the rod
situation is also a myth. The theory that I am going by is that if
you have a Red oil pan, you have the good rods and if you have a black
oil pan, you have the regular rods with the clinch bolt. I know of 6
other engines that belong to friends of mine and 3 of them have black
oil pans and the regular rods. The red oil pan ones have the good
rods. Hope this helps
--
wf.
Wayne Flowers
Randee Greenwald
- Show quoted text -
mbstude
2007-03-18 15:35:05 UTC
Permalink
On Mar 18, 9:29 am, "Michael - Roseland FL"
Post by Michael - Roseland FL
If I wasn't building a house right now I would scoop it up and put it
in a 1965 Excalibur and build a Studebaker SS clone with a real R3
engine. How sweet would that be?
Post by randee
Don't recall ever hearing the story about rod type and pan color.
However somewhere I may still have my old correspondence with Paxton (I
bought a Paxton engine back around '67-'69). In the correspondence he
pointed out that although they had parts for several more R3 blocks on
hand, they were going to be shortly out of R3 heads and after the R3
heads were gone they would supply ported and polished R2 heads as they
had done on some earlier engines. I wound up with the ported/polished
heads on my motor (bought the R3 heads separately later form elsewhere).
No idea now what serial number was on the motor.
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by randee
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
The rods do NOT have a clinch bolt. It is an interference fit between
the rod and wrist pin. The heads are genuine 1555479 casting number
R3 heads. There are a lot of myths as to the heads running out. I
know of B24 that has ported/polished R2 heads. Mine is B103 with REAL
heads. B108 belongs to a friend of mine and it also has REAL R3
heads. Balanced tag was almost deteriorated as it was an aluminum
tag. I still have the remains of it. There really is no REAL
breaking point on the Heads. I know of early engines that have R2
heads and really late engines with REAL heads. Also, the rod
situation is also a myth. The theory that I am going by is that if
you have a Red oil pan, you have the good rods and if you have a black
oil pan, you have the regular rods with the clinch bolt. I know of 6
other engines that belong to friends of mine and 3 of them have black
oil pans and the regular rods. The red oil pan ones have the good
rods. Hope this helps
--
wf.
Wayne Flowers
Randee Greenwald
- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
"How sweet would that be?"

And to think, I thought there was no way to top your R4 Avanti... <g>

Matthew
oldcarfart
2007-03-18 16:56:15 UTC
Permalink
Post by mbstude
On Mar 18, 9:29 am, "Michael - Roseland FL"
Post by Michael - Roseland FL
If I wasn't building a house right now I would scoop it up and put it
in a 1965 Excalibur and build a Studebaker SS clone with a real R3
engine. How sweet would that be?
Post by randee
Don't recall ever hearing the story about rod type and pan color.
However somewhere I may still have my old correspondence with Paxton (I
bought a Paxton engine back around '67-'69). In the correspondence he
pointed out that although they had parts for several more R3 blocks on
hand, they were going to be shortly out of R3 heads and after the R3
heads were gone they would supply ported and polished R2 heads as they
had done on some earlier engines. I wound up with the ported/polished
heads on my motor (bought the R3 heads separately later form elsewhere).
No idea now what serial number was on the motor.
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by randee
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
The rods do NOT have a clinch bolt. It is an interference fit between
the rod and wrist pin. The heads are genuine 1555479 casting number
R3 heads. There are a lot of myths as to the heads running out. I
know of B24 that has ported/polished R2 heads. Mine is B103 with REAL
heads. B108 belongs to a friend of mine and it also has REAL R3
heads. Balanced tag was almost deteriorated as it was an aluminum
tag. I still have the remains of it. There really is no REAL
breaking point on the Heads. I know of early engines that have R2
heads and really late engines with REAL heads. Also, the rod
situation is also a myth. The theory that I am going by is that if
you have a Red oil pan, you have the good rods and if you have a black
oil pan, you have the regular rods with the clinch bolt. I know of 6
other engines that belong to friends of mine and 3 of them have black
oil pans and the regular rods. The red oil pan ones have the good
rods. Hope this helps
--
wf.
Wayne Flowers
Randee Greenwald
- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
"How sweet would that be?"
And to think, I thought there was no way to top your R4 Avanti... <g>
Matthew- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Is your flooring sheet of black and white squares or individual
adhesive tiles? I like the look and want to do simular for my retail
shop.
n***@yahoo.com
2007-03-19 12:49:34 UTC
Permalink
Post by oldcarfart
Post by mbstude
On Mar 18, 9:29 am, "Michael - Roseland FL"
Post by Michael - Roseland FL
If I wasn't building a house right now I would scoop it up and put it
in a 1965 Excalibur and build a Studebaker SS clone with a real R3
engine. How sweet would that be?
Post by randee
Don't recall ever hearing the story about rod type and pan color.
However somewhere I may still have my old correspondence with Paxton (I
bought a Paxton engine back around '67-'69). In the correspondence he
pointed out that although they had parts for several more R3 blocks on
hand, they were going to be shortly out of R3 heads and after the R3
heads were gone they would supply ported and polished R2 heads as they
had done on some earlier engines. I wound up with the ported/polished
heads on my motor (bought the R3 heads separately later form elsewhere).
No idea now what serial number was on the motor.
Post by n***@yahoo.com
Post by randee
Do you know which rods are in it, i.e. clamp bolt?
R3 heads or ported and polished R2 (I don't recall where the break point
in serial # was here)?
Balance tag still with the engine?
--
wf.
The rods do NOT have a clinch bolt. It is an interference fit between
the rod and wrist pin. The heads are genuine 1555479 casting number
R3 heads. There are a lot of myths as to the heads running out. I
know of B24 that has ported/polished R2 heads. Mine is B103 with REAL
heads. B108 belongs to a friend of mine and it also has REAL R3
heads. Balanced tag was almost deteriorated as it was an aluminum
tag. I still have the remains of it. There really is no REAL
breaking point on the Heads. I know of early engines that have R2
heads and really late engines with REAL heads. Also, the rod
situation is also a myth. The theory that I am going by is that if
you have a Red oil pan, you have the good rods and if you have a black
oil pan, you have the regular rods with the clinch bolt. I know of 6
other engines that belong to friends of mine and 3 of them have black
oil pans and the regular rods. The red oil pan ones have the good
rods. Hope this helps
--
wf.
Wayne Flowers
Randee Greenwald
- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
"How sweet would that be?"
And to think, I thought there was no way to top your R4 Avanti... <g>
Matthew- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Is your flooring sheet of black and white squares or individual
adhesive tiles? I like the look and want to do simular for my retail
shop.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
The flooring in my engine room has black and white tiles that are 1
square feet each. I wanted to go for a retro look. My garage has the
grey U-Coat It on it and it's the best floor I have ever seen. I've
dropped stuff on it and it doesn't chip unless it is something really
heavy like a water pump or something. Dropping sockets, ratchets, or
anything like that does not harm it.

Nimesh
David H.
2015-11-24 15:18:01 UTC
Permalink
replying to nsolanki77, David H. wrote:
Nimesh, do you still have the R3 engine for sale? I have a 63 Avanti with a
weak R1.

--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/studebaker/studebaker-r3-engine-for-sale-b103-14806-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface t
alt.autos.studebaker and other automotive groups

Jeff Rice
2007-03-18 13:45:52 UTC
Permalink
It's just wrong to deface a clone like that.
A clone car deserves a clone engine, and NOT the real thing.
Jeff (Clone purity.... That's where it's at! <lol>) Rice




"Michael - Roseland FL" wrote.
Post by Michael - Roseland FL
If I wasn't building a house right now I would scoop it up and put it
in a 1965 Excalibur and build a Studebaker SS clone with a real R3
engine. How sweet would that be?
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
jimandkathiekrise
2007-03-17 02:38:25 UTC
Permalink
WHat color is the Great Dane??
I already have a wife older than that, so I am not interested in the wife
part of the deal.
(lol)
Jim
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
64daytonaht
2007-03-17 04:59:59 UTC
Permalink
Take payments?

Bo
Post by n***@yahoo.com
I have an original Granetelli B103 R3 engine for sale. Please email
brand new and museum quality. Serious inquiries only please.
Nimesh
n***@yahoo.com
2007-03-18 02:19:40 UTC
Permalink
Post by 64daytonaht
Take payments?
Bo
I would consider taking payments depening on how much is put down.

ns
Comatus@bex.net
2007-03-19 15:05:51 UTC
Permalink
"I would consider taking payments depending on how much is put down."
______________________________
I'm guessing it "puts down" about 320 foot-pounds, give or take a G.

Only an old battleship sailor could know what a near-miss by 15-inchers
feels like, but a gunnery officer aboard "Bismarck" said "It ripped a scream
from your body." Think of that, but in a Studebaker. Then imagine it being
felt by the snot-nosed kid in the fart-piped tuner next to you at the
stoplight.

Now, gents, step right up--and gauge those 'payments' accordingly.
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